Being the Resident Light Bulb Nerd here at our Portland store means I get a lot of random questions about bulb use, for new and old fixtures. It’s not exactly the most glamorous subject in the world, but it’s an important one to contemplate if you’re serious about lighting, especially when the bulb is exposed. Using the right bulb can be as dramatic as the difference between lightning and a lightning bug!
If you have a fixture with a fully enclosed, opaque shade, obviously you don’t need to stress too much. The bulb is obscured, so you can go with whatever A bulb you have in the drawer, or the curliest Compact Fluorescent (CFL) you’ve got! Your only limitation is the maximum recommended wattage, and recommended type bulb – information you can find on the sticker on or near the socket. It’s not a required wattage – you don’t have to put a 300W bulb in your Rose City – but it does give you the maximum that you can safely use. This sticker can be found on or near the socket of the fixture, like so:
Look for a sticker like this to identify maximum wattage.
Sometimes the maximum wattage label is located on the socket itself, as seen here.
The recommended shape is designated by the letter. Different shapes of bulbs vent their heat in different ways, which can affect your fixture in the long run. Most fixtures are designed for a type A, the most common type, which is the shape of bulb you think of when you think “light bulb.” However, bulbs come in different sizes, so your standard lightbulb is an A19, but appliance bulbs are also A bulbs— they’re A15s. If you’re thinking of using a different shape, consider what will happen to that heat. If you use a globe bulb (a G bulb) with a shade, where will the heat go? It’s going to get trapped between the bulb and the shade. It’s the same thing with a flame tip bulb — those will definitely fry a socket if used pointing down. But in a candle-style sconce, a flame tip bulb is pointed up, so the heat will rise up and away On a bare bulb fixture, those G bulbs don’t have to worry about their heat being throttled up in a shade.
Common Bulb Shapes
Let’s say you have a fixture where the bulb is entirely exposed, like the Burnside. A clear bulb is going to be your best bet, and obviously it looks fantastic with a carbon filament bulb. Carbon filament bulbs are gorgeous, don’t produce as much light, and are more expensive to boot. I sometimes like using a clear, incandescent A19 or A15 bulb. Here are some 60 watters in our Menlo on our showroom floor:
Menlo Pendant with Mirrored Shade
You get the look andthe light! The folks at Bishop’s Barbershop in Sellwood (a Portland neighborhood) went this route, and it turned out fantastic. (Pro tip: If there is printing on the tip from the manufacturer, use #000 steel wool to buff it off.)
Clear bulbs are also a great look in a satin etched shade. That way, you just see the glow of the filament, not the shape of the bulb.
If you’re going the path of CFLs, but your shades are open and the spiral offends you, considering using an enclosed CFL.
Manufacturers have started putting the spirals under a glass envelope, giving it the familiar look of an A bulb. We use these on our showroom floor, and they really look great. But keep in mind that CFLs get larger the brighter they get, so the envelopes get bigger as the wattage steps up: Here’s the 25W equivalent, 40W equivalent, and 60W equivalent.
All right, that’s enough light bulb enthusiasm from me today. If you have any questions on the subject, be sure to pipe up in the comments below!
With the upcoming federal ban on incandescent bulbs, what will happen to the reproduction bulbs, such as the carbon filament bulbs?
I like your reflection in the lightbulb…in the first pic!
Steve –
By my understanding, they will be exempt because they are sold as historic replicas rather than light sources. It’s all in the semantics!
Amy –
I was wondering if anyone was going to notice that…!
Anne,
You have me wondering what type of bulb I should use in my Austin fixture (with the frosted B0060 5″ Satin shade). It doesn’t say on the specs page and I (of course) mispalced the paperwork that came with the fixtures.
http://www.rejuvenation.com/fixshowW709/templates/selection.phtml
(Open a store in NYC!)
Anne, I will be purchasing a Brooklyn 4 arm fixture with art glass shades in caramel and brown. I was thinking of using 60W carbon filament bulbs. How dim will this be? It will be in a study in the center of the ceiling. There are other table lamps in the room, so it won’t be the only source of light. What do you think? I like the glow of the carbon filament, but am unsure how much light the 4 bulbs will throw. Thanks.
I was surprised to find the downside of these new fluorescent light bulbs. I think people ought to know the contraindications so they can make a wise decision.
Mercury, the downside of energy-saving bulbs
Every upside, almost by definition, has a downside. For example…
Upside: The western world is increasingly switching to
fluorescent, energy-saving lightbulbs.
Downside: They contain mercury, while traditional incandescent bulbs do not.
The bulbs emit the mercury when they’re disposed of in dumps. Their makers say this is OK because the amount of mercury emissions from power stations that occur as a result of powering the old-style bulbs is greater than the mercury contained in the energy-saving bulbs.
But, researchers are now saying that the mercury emitted from fluorescent bulbs in landfills is in a vaporous state. This means it gets into the food chain more easily than the mercury emitted by coal-powered power stations.
The Danger Lurking in Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs
By Deirdre Imus
Published March 07, 2011
You see them in every grocery store and home center – those funny-looking curly compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) that are rapidly replacing the old round bulbs. And pretty soon, the Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007 kicks in, requiring bulbs to be 25 to 30 percent more efficient by 2012 to 2014, and 70 percent more efficient by 2020, effectively phasing out traditional incandescent bulbs as a way to save energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions.
The energy efficiency of CFLs may be significant, but unlike traditional light bulbs, there is a hidden danger sealed inside each little bulb that requires special handling and disposal.
Mercury – a potent, developmental neurotoxin that can damage the brain, liver, kidneys and central nervous system. Infants and young children are particularly vulnerable to mercury’s toxic effects. Even at low levels, mercury is capable of causing a number of health problems including impair motor functioning, cognitive ability and emotional problems. Higher or prolonged exposure can result in much more serious health problems.
CFLs are marketed as “safe” and don’t pose any health risks as long as the glass remains intact. The danger comes if the bulbs are cracked, broken or not disposed of properly. Although it sounds like a miniscule amount – 4 to 5 milligrams – there is enough mercury in just one fluorescent light bulb to contaminate 6,000 gallons of water.
So what does that mean if a CFL is cracked or breaks in our homes, releasing mercury vapors in an enclosed area?
Consumers – especially those with young children –need to know what to do when a CFL breaks and the proper way to dispose of used bulbs. It’s no longer as easy as changing a light bulb.
The EPA suggests the following:
o People and pets should immediately leave the room.
o Open a window and/or door and Air out the room for 5 to 10 minutes.
o Turn off the central forced air heating/air-conditioning system.
o Thoroughly collect broken glass and visible powder using wet cloths. Never use vacuum cleaners or brooms.
o Put all debris and cleanup materials in a sealable container and put outdoors in a trash container or protected area until materials can be disposed of properly. Do not leaving bulb fragments or cleanup materials indoors.
o If practical, continue to air out the room where the bulb was broken and leave the heating/air conditioning system shut off for several hours.
http://www.epa.gov/cfl/cflcleanup.html
All of this needs to be done to protect people from the tiny amount of mercury in one fluorescent light bulb. Which begs the question, are these lights really safe and are the risks worth it?
Another equally important concern is what happens to the environment – the air, soil and water – when tons of discarded bulbs, along with the mercury, are dumped into local landfills?
The threat posed by billions of broken CFLs lying in landfills has resulted in some communities requiring their citizens to discard used and broken CFLs in designated recycling centers or in a hazardous-waste collection facility.
Given the known deleterious effects caused by mercury, it would seem logical to assume there will be some unintended consequences resulting from the switch to compact fluorescent lights.
Only time will tell how significant those consequences will be.
If you are concerned about the possible health risks associated with CFLs, LED or halogen lights are good alternatives. Both cost a little more but are as efficient as CFLs and can be recycled easily.
For more information about mercury and compact fluorescent light bulbs go to
http://www.epa.gov/cfl/
For information about your communities recycling program go to http://epa.gov/cfl/cflrecycling.html
Deirdre Imus is the Founder and President of The Deirdre Imus Environmental Health CenterTM at Hackensack University Medical Center and Co-Founder and Co-Director of the Imus Cattle Ranch for Kids with Cancer. Deirdre is the author of four books, including three national bestsellers. She is a frequent speaker on green living and children’s health issues, and is a contributor to FoxNewsHealth.com. For more information go to http://www.dienviro.com
Rich — That fixture is designed for a 60W incandescent A-bulb, so that gives us our maximum for the fixture. With a satin etch shade, you’re going to see the outline of the bulb, so I would recommend one of two approaches: If you are an incandescent sort of person, use a clear A bulb. That way you’ll see just the shape of the filament through the glass. If you live the life of CFLs, try an encased CFL. That way you’ll just see a traditional bulb shape, rather than the loops of a standard CFL.
Dave — Carbon filaments make for absolutely stunning mood light, and not much else! Assume a production of at least as third as much light as a traditional incandescent. This can vary from style to style (and from manufactured batch to manufactured batch). If these are the bulbs you’re contemplating, they produce roughly as much light as a 15 or 20 watt standard incandescent. I think four will give you a warm, gentle general light, and that paired with task lights as needed should be fine. As a trial, you could grab from 25 watt A bulbs and see if that will do the trick!
Jan –
CFLs do contain a small amount of mercury — about as much as can be found in two cans of tuna. That’s why it’s so important to recycle them rather than throw them away.
You can find a local recycler at lamprecycle.org .
I keep spent bulbs in a bin in my basement, right next to my can full of batteries…!
[...] may remember in an earlier post of mine, I talked about how every lightbulb has a letter and number assigned to it. The letter identifies [...]
When were the sculptured, clear-version flamebulbs first made? I know the opaque ones were popular by the 1920s but I’m asking about the clear, and I know clear ones were made by 1936 in 25 watts but when were the FIRST manufactured. Second, when did people first use these flamebulbs – particularly clear, in exterior sconce fixtures? I’ve been trying to determine this for a number of years. Thanks.
Hi, Ken! Good question regarding the advent of clear flame tip bulbs. I’m not sure of an exact date, but the always entertaining bulbcollectors.com showcases some clear flame-shaped bulbs circa 1900:
http://is.gd/TcHw6S
Flame bulbs were meant to evoke the traditional looks of a gas or candle fixture, and were often used in fixtures with lanterns or faux candles. They were also often used for space considerations — their more narrow shape allowed for narrow glass shades. Some clip-on shades also were designed to clip on to flame-shaped shades. More often than not, clear bulbs were used when there was some sort of shade involved to diffuse the light of the bulb. Many exposed bulb, faux candle fixtures (like our Sweet Home and Glenbrook) were designed with opaque flame bulbs in mind, usually painted an orange or yellow color for a warm glow.
My rule of thumb: Clear is great for dim, moody lighting. Opaque is better for bright, diffused lighting.